Wei Sawdong Falls: The Descent, When It's Safe, and What's at the Bottom

Wei Sawdong is a three-tier waterfall about 8 km from Sohra (Cherrapunji), dropping through a chain of turquoise pools. A view from the top takes about five minutes of easy walking. Reaching the water takes 20 to 40 minutes of steep descent, partly on bamboo ladders, and that part is best left to the dry months.

Two different visits

On the ladders it's one person at a time. Wait your turn and don't let anyone hurry you.

When to go

• October: the best month. Strong flow after the rains, and the path has started to dry.
• November to February: less water but clearer pools. The descent is at its driest and safest.
• March to May: fine, with the flow building again.
• June to August: the falls are full, but the ladders and path are muddy and greasy, and the descent is often closed. Plan on the view from the top, and go down only if the path is open and a local guide says yes that morning.

If the guide says no, that's the answer. A slip on a wet bamboo ladder above a rock pool isn't a twisted ankle.

Who shouldn't go down

Anyone with knee trouble or a fear of heights. Children. Elderly travellers. Anyone in sandals or slippers. If two people in your group want the pools and three don't, the three can wait at the viewpoint; it's the better spot for a photograph anyway.

At the bottom

The pools are cold and very clear in the dry season. People do swim in the lower ones. The rock around them is smooth and slippery even in January, so climb in rather than jump, and don't go in alone.

Take it slowly.

Give yourself an hour at the bottom and allow longer for the climb out than the walk down.

Getting there

Wei Sawdong is on the Sohra side of the hills, about 5 km from Dainthlen Falls, and the two pair well. You park on the roadside and walk from there. The village collects a small fee. There are no facilities at the falls, so bring water.

A good Sohra day puts Nohkalikai first in the morning light, Wei Sawdong around midday, and the caves or Seven Sisters later. The Cherrapunji guide has the rest of the area.

What to wear

Shoes with real grip, closed toes, and nothing you'll mind getting muddy. Keep both hands free on the ladders: a small backpack, not a tote bag, and the phone in a pocket until you're down. More in the packing list.