Meghalaya in Monsoon: What Works, What Closes, and Who Should Go

The monsoon reaches Meghalaya in the first week of June in a normal year and the heavy rain lasts until about the end of September. That stretch is the best time to see the waterfalls and the worst for the clear Dawki river, the treks and the water sports. Go in monsoon if waterfalls and moving cloud are what you want, and if your dates can bend.

Meghalaya Tourism's own calendar counts May as monsoon too. In practice May is the run-up: heavy storms and fewer people, with things starting to close.

The trade, in one table

How much rain

A lot, and not everywhere equally. Sohra averages roughly 2,600 mm in June alone, more than many Indian cities get in a year. Mawsynram, about 15 km to the west, is generally counted the wettest inhabited place on earth, at close to 11,900 mm a year. Shillong gets roughly a fifth of Sohra's rain, and Dawki and the Garo Hills are lowland and warmer.

Rain rarely falls evenly through a day. There are dry hours, and a monsoon trip works by using them when they come.

Roads and landslides

Meghalaya Tourism's standing advice is plain: "Check daily weather forecasts, pay attention to warnings of heavy rains and landslides". Take it literally.

• Leave a spare half day in the plan for a road closure.
• Don't book a flight out of Guwahati for the afternoon of your last day. Leave Shillong early, or sleep near Guwahati.
• Avoid long drives after dark in heavy rain.

More on this in is Meghalaya safe.

The rain plan

When a day washes out, here is what we do instead, in order:

1. The caves, which don't care about weather. See the caves guide.
2. The Don Bosco museum in Shillong: seven floors on Northeast cultures, two hours minimum.
3. Mawphlang Sacred Grove, which is at its best in drizzle.
4. Waterfall viewpoints, which are still worth it in rain, because the flow is at its peak.
5. Swap the trek day to the next clear morning, and pull an easier day forward.

Nongriat in monsoon

The double decker root bridge trek is still possible. It just changes character. About 3,500 wet, mossy steps each way, leeches, and a high, fast river under the suspension bridges. We take fit adults only, always with a local guide, and recommend sleeping at the bottom rather than climbing out in the afternoon rain. Never with children, elderly travellers or bad knees. The root bridges guide has the details.

Who should go, and who shouldn't

Go if you're coming for waterfalls and cloud, you like rain, you're a photographer, or you want the hills quiet and rooms cheaper.

Don't if the Dawki boat photograph is the reason for your trip, you're bringing small children for the treks, your schedule has no slack, or Kaziranga is on your list. For those, November to February is your window; see the best time to visit Meghalaya.

What to pack

A poncho as well as a rain jacket, shoes with real grip and a dry spare pair, quick-dry clothes, dry bags and leech socks. The full monsoon list is in what to pack for Meghalaya.

A monsoon trip

Monsoon Meghalaya is built for this season, with three nights in Sohra, a day at Mawsynram, a local guide, and a coordinator on call because monsoon plans change.